Thu, 11 Feb 2010

As a tourist on the Galapagos Islands: how much tourism can the natural wonders of our earth tolerate? Dream journey to Latin America / Part 3

Ruth Zbinden was a teacher in a Swiss Waldorf School, who recently retired. Now she is fulfilling her dream: travelling and working in South America After a stopover in Costa Rica and Guatemala, she headed towards her target, the reason for her journey, a small school in Ecuador, located high in the Andes, where Ruth Zbinden worked as a volunteer for the organisation Cielo Azul, a small relief aid organisation with its headquarters located in Basel. There she was introduced to the struggle the indigenous peoples face for the right to an education. (See previous report)

Now after three and a half months as a stand-in teacher at the school, Ruth Zbinden is moving on. Next on the agenda is a tourist stop on the Galapagos Islands. But this part of the trip has left behind not only positive feelings, as Ruth Zbinden explains.

GALAPAGOS (NNA) – Mention Ecuador and you most certainly also think of the Galapagos, the mysterious volcanic islands situated in the Pacific 1,000 kilometres off the South American mainland. For a long time the islands were spared human influence. Many legends have arisen around the origin of human habitation and the conquest of the islands. The first person to discover the fire spewing mountains was thought to have been the Incan ruler Tupac Yupanqui. It was at the time of the Spanish conquest that the giant tortoises which dwell on the islands were discovered. These tortoises also gave their name to the islands on which they were discovered. (In Spanish “galapago” means tortoise). To this day the islands are the subject of discovery and research, sometimes with contradictory results. The whole island landscape, including the beautiful scenery, has been preserved as a national park.

Immediately on arrival – most commonly by æroplane - one must pay the 100 dollar entry fee and is made aware of the rules which have to be observed during the visit. An individual visit separately from a tourist group is possible, but only in a very limited way because admission to most of the interesting places is only granted to tourist ships and they adhere to a very strictly regulated schedule. This prevents too many people visiting an area all at once. Cruise ships of different price ranges travel from island to island and excursions to the islands always take place under the supervision of local and approved guides. Once back on the ship one is mostly pampered and spoiled.

The visitor gets to see wonderful views of the unique volcanic scenery and to experience a unique ambience. Binoculars are not needed to observe the wildlife. Families and whole herds of sea lions totally ignore us. Iguanas seem to pose courteously for me; when basking they can absorb a lot of heat from the sun. When they finally decide to move, they leave a visible track with their long tail. Various frigate birds show off their flying skills and fascinating courtship behaviour. The males impress the females by inflating the huge red sac under their chin and spread their wings. Pelicans dive in breathtaking swoops to catch their prey in the sea.

The special darling of the Galapagos Islands is the blue-footed booby. If two of the species like each other, they dance and point their blue feet, open their wings and make a chattering noise, undoubtedly amorous whispers! Various herons and flamingos enliven the marshy areas and everywhere the Darwin's finches twitter.

Armed with a snorkel, one can observe over 300 different species of fish and with luck, perhaps even a turtle. However, the gigantic tortoises that the islands are famous for can only be seen in special protected enclosures.

Today, thanks to colonisation and study, we can admire this primeval world. However, our presence also has a dark side. The introduction of animals by the settlers destroyed the food chain of native animal species and nests were harmed. For some time now the attempt has been made to deal with these “pests”, such as goats, donkeys, pigs, rats and dogs. Unfortunately our domestic animals are destroying native flora and fauna whose cycles within the local ecosystem could still have their natural balance.

I am left with something of a bad conscience about having travelled to the islands as a tourist. Of course it is wonderful to see the big lizards eye to eye. We admire and take photographs. Of course we adhere to the strict rules, take nothing and leave nothing, not even the smallest drop. But nevertheless …

Do we behave in a way which also protects each place on this earth as it should be? I left the islands with more questions than I came with. What would these islands look like today if the European conquerors had not seized power and spread their knowledge and habits? With our huge drive to learn and explore we can also destroy whole ecosystems. What exactly is development? Does development bring a better quality of life? If yes, for whom?

Yes, I do feel a little guilty that I travelled there, but I must admit that, frankly, I enjoyed it very much. The moods in the mornings and evenings on the ship’s deck or on the lonely beach were exhilarating. The moment when the sun sank into the sea and, opposite, the full moon rose from out of the sea in the east was unforgettable…

All of this has impressed me deeply, and hopefully left a lasting mark. Only, why first must I join the tourism boom to see these things more clearly?

END/nna/zbi/cva

Item: 100211-02EN Date: 11 February 2010

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